Another Day Immersed

With only three days to recuperate from travels in Croatia, I woke up Saturday morning at approximately 3:45 am to make it to the train station by 4:45 that morning in order to meet my 4th and 5th year classes so that I could join them on their class trip to Ópusztaszer, a park in southern Hungary that houses the famous Feszty Panorama of Hungarian history.

Here’s what I didn’t know:

1) Because of my difficulty understanding the location of quickly pronounced Hungarian towns, I wasn’t aware that I’d be on the train for five hours that morning (one way).
2) My 4th year students have an unlimited amount of energy stored inside them. They laughed, laughed, laughed, laughed, took pictures with their cell phones, swung around the train car like it was a jungle gym, had water fights, laughed, and laughed some more.
3) A 6 month old baby was able to tolerate the ten-hour train ride better than me.
4) That I would nearly finish reading “Embers” by Sándor Márai on the train. I can finally start “Versailles” Liz!

Here’s what I learned:

1) There was an enormous flood in Szeged several years ago (lasting several months) that would put the current flooding situation to shame.
2) The panoramic painting took two years to complete and was first exhibited in 1894 in Budapest to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the conquering of the Hungarian homeland. During WWII the painting was restored by Polish experts in Ópusztaszer and was opened to the public again in a grand ceremony to celebrate the 1100th anniversary of the conquering of the homeland.

I wasn’t able to take a picture, but here’s what the painting depicts:

On a rise, the victorious prince Árpád, the leader of the Hungarians, sits astride a white horse, around him are the leaders of the 7 tribes. At the feet of the prince are the bound prisoners awaiting their fate, Latorc the second in command of the local Slavic people being grasped by his crying daughter. In the distance galloping forward victoriously are the Hungarian hordes.

To the right of Árpád, is his wife and her followers arriving on the back of a wagon drawn by four oxen. In front of the wagon on the left is a Slav altar in ruins with the guardians of the dead. Further to the right, women are being carried off into slavery from amongst the ruins of a defensive tower. Even further off in the distance, in a valley at the foot of the mountains, are groups of Hungarians driving pack animals in search of a place to camp.

My favorite part of the painting is the following: On the rise directly opposite the prince, a Hungarian Taltos or Shaman stands before a sacrificial altar with his hands raised, awaiting a sign from the skies. In accordance with pagan ceremony a white horse is sacrificed. Girls are dancing around them throwing magic grasses into the fire. The atmosphere is intensified by the sound of drums and pipes. The Hungarians stand anxiously around wondering what the future holds. The white smoke rising into the air is a good omen. Finally an end has come to the long wanderings of the Hungarian people; here in the Carpathian Basin they have found a permanent homeland. This took place over 1100 years ago now.

--this coming from my “Angol” guide paper.

Our group wandered around the park, which was much bigger than I had imagined. It was spacious with several of what I like to refer to as “pod homes” dotting the landscape. Apparently, the first Hungarians lived in these interesting architectural wonders. Out of everyone in our school group, I think I was the most fascinated by them.

We also wandered into a “historical” Hungarian village, which was more of a museum. There was an old Hungarian school, a hairdresser, bakery, and a windmill with really steep stairs that I explored with my students.

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It had occurred to me earlier that morning: Why was I going on this trip? At one point, roughly 4:30 am, I had had to run back to my apt. in the dark to get my forgotten bag lunch. I didn’t know why I was up this early if I didn’t even know where I was going.

But then I stepped back to look at the bigger picture: This year has already flown by for me and soon it will all be in the past (I realize that I’m becoming sentimentally sappy now, but bear with me). I want to take advantage of most every opportunity that this town and my schools give me…or else, why would I be here?

The moment I realized I was glad that I came on this day trip was when a group of my fourth year students gave me a bouquet of weeds after the extensive train ride to the south was over and we were waiting at the train station for a bus to take us to the park. They were weeds, yes, but pretty colorful weeds (dandelions, etc.). I arranged them in my purse so that they stuck out and I threw them away only when they wilted. I couldn’t talk to my students very much, because their English is limited and most of the parents couldn’t speak a word of it. So, needless to say, there wasn’t much talking, but I’m completely fine with that. I’m not the type of person that needs or likes to talk all the time anyway (only when I’m reunited with my fellow natives on the weekend!)

Therefore, there was a lot of observing, reading, and thinking. This actually made the journey kind of relaxing. I watched how the students interacted with each other, how they always offered their friends and me some of their snacks before eating it all themselves…so unlike me!

So in the end, I’m really glad I went because I learned a lot about Hungarian history, spent some time with my students, and got some fresh air. I probably never would have made it to this park on my own.